Autumn Home Checklist by FMB

As the summer draws to a close and the evenings get shorter this is the ideal time to do some seasonal jobs in the garden and around the house.

It’s a good idea to start at the top and work your way down when assessing what jobs need to be done. Start off by looking at the roof, are there any loose tiles? Brian Berry, Director of External Affairs at the Federation of Master Builders (FMB), the UK’s largest trade association in building says “You may be able to identify roofing problems from the ground but it is not necessarily a good idea to climb a ladder for a closer inspection or try and rectify the problem yourself. When work at height is involved it is always best to get the specialists in so you can avoid injury. Remember doing maintenance and improvement work yourself can actually be a false economy anyway as work which is completed to a poor standard can actually reduce the value of your home.”

Next, have a look at the guttering for damage and check for any sign of moss or algae which is a sign that water is leaking from the guttering. Clear away any blockages, leaves and debris that may have accumulated in the guttering. A simple test to check your guttering is working is to pour a jug of water down and make sure there are no blockages but be careful as you will have to use a ladder to do this. Replace damaged or rusted cast-iron guttering with a modern alternative.

Check your paintwork for signs of cracking, as rain and frost can get into the wood work and cause rot. Also check that windows and doors fit properly and that no drafts can get through. Draft proofing your home could save you around £80 a year according to the Energy Saving Trust. As well as wood work on windowsills and door frames you should also have a look at the exterior paint work – if your home is painted. Repainting the exterior may be a job for a builder as it might require scaffolding and it’s important to get a good finish.

Check paths and patios for any damage or algae. You can buy various products at a local garden centre to remove algae or moss. Using a pressure washer can also clear dirt from a patio but be careful that you do not do this when the weather starts to turn frosty, as the patio could ice over and cause an accident. You should also be careful not to have stagnant water sitting on the patio as this is a main cause of algae and moss.

After your last BBQ of the summer make sure you give the BBQ and garden furniture a good clean and store it away from the harsh weather in a shed or garage.

As the evenings begin to get darker make sure you have a welcoming light to guide you to your front door. If you don’t already have any external light ask a local electrician to fit one for you. If you already have one make sure it is in good working order.

You probably haven’t been using your boiler very much over the warmer summer months but no doubt you will need to start using it again soon, so now is the perfect time to get your boiler serviced. You should have your boiler serviced once a year to ensure it is working efficiently and that it is not dangerous. If you have a gas boiler it should only be serviced by a qualified engineer who is registered with the Gas Safe Register.

You can probably do most of these seasonal jobs yourself but if you do need help make sure you always carefully choose your builder.

Below are the FMB’s tips for choosing a builder:

1. Be specific and prepare a detailed brief. Be as clear as you can about what you want, as this can make a huge difference to quotes.

2. Ask friends, family and neighbours if they can recommend a builder they have recently used. Alternatively check the find a builder website (www.fmb.org.uk/findabuilder). And don’t be afraid to ask for references or to speak to previous clients.

3. Get at least three quotes. When you are ready to decide, don’t just go with the cheapest, consider communication and quality too.

4. Use a contract. You can download free contracts on the FMB website (http://www.fmb.org.uk/find-a-builder/free-contracts/).

5. Never pay the full cost of the project up front. Agree a payment plan. Using a credit card to pay can offer you more protection


Source: FMB

How to Choose the Right Shower

Hot water for showering is provided either by a stored hot water system or by an instantaneous heater of some description that heats the water on demand.

ELECTRIC SHOWERS

Electric showers are the easiest showers to install in terms of compatibility with existing water heating systems and locations throughout the home. They draw water direct from the mains water supply and heat it as it is used for showering. It can be used in most domestic showering applications e.g. over the bath, shower cubicles, shower rooms etc.

ADVANTAGES:

• Provides a shower that is independent of the main hot water heating system in the house, thus reducing the risk associated with breakdowns.
• Can be installed in almost any home throughout the UK new & old.
• Instantaneous shower; it can be used at any time of the day.

DISADVANTAGES:

• Requires electrical wiring from the shower unit to the main fuse box.
• Flow rate tends to be lower than showers that use the homes main water heating system, and it will vary between summer when the incoming water is warm, and the winter when the flow rate will reduce because the incoming water is significantly colder..
• Cost wise, the installation costs may be higher than showers that use the homes main water heating system due to the need for plumbing and electrical work.

Higher kilowatt output showers have gone a long to help overcome some of the disadvantages of poor flow; (10 kilowatt showers are the equivalent of over 3 emersion heaters or 10 x 1 kilowatt bars on an electric fire) but to some an electric appliance fitted in the bathroom is perceived as a safety risk. This is not the case, providing it is properly installed, by a trained professional who knows what he is doing. Electrical appliances are often associated with water for example the kettle, washing machine or the electric cooker, which needs frequent washing.

MAINS PRESSURE SHOWERS

Showers that are fed from a domestic heating system that feeds hot water to the taps instantaneously on demand.

Combination boilers have become increasingly popular over the last 10-15 years as the number of one and two person homes as increased dramatically.

The combination boiler takes the practicality of an instantaneous 'Multipoint' water heater and combines it with a traditional boiler, hence the name 'combination' boiler. The great advantage is that you only use the water that you need.

You can establish whether you have an instantaneous boiler by the lack of any storage water cylinders. A simple test is to turn the central heating off, so that the boiler is not running; then turn a hot water tap on, the boiler should fire to supply water to the tap.

A combination boiler will switch all its heat output to water heating when demanded. This means that you will have a boiler capable of heating your whole house feeding your mixer shower.

Therefore if you have this type of water heating system you will need a shower that blends or mixes the hot and cold water to a safe showering temperature that can be maintained. Mixer showers that are compatible with instantaneous boilers will have a higher flow rate than electric showers, and are generally easier to install because there are no electrical connections.

ADVANTAGES:

• High flow rates, similar to a powered shower because these showers are mains fed and designed for pressurised water systems.
• Easy to install, no problems with system design, location or compatibility with your existing water system, providing you have an instantaneous boiler that has been installed correctly.
• Instantaneous shower only heats the water when you need it.

DISADVANTAGES:

• If your boiler breaks down you have no hot water for your taps or showering.
• Combination boilers start to heat water when a tap or shower is turned on. The length of pipe from the boiler to the shower determines the time taken for hot water to reach the shower, and it is often the case that large volumes of water need to be drawn off, before water of the correct temperature is achieved, this can be costly and frustrating. Good system design and installation helps to overcome this problem in most cases.

GRAVITY FED MIXER SHOWERS

Showers that are fed from a stored hot water system, that can only feed hot water to the taps if the water has been pre heated in the cylinder.

Imagine a set of taps with a temporary, rubber, hand-shower attachment. The idea is very simple, you pre heat the water in your cylinder then turn the hot and cold taps to blend the water to achieve a comfortable showering or rinsing temperature. Mixer showers work on the same principal they are easy to install as they do not need any electrical connections, and work by blending hot and cold water together. They are ideal if you have an abundant supply of stored hot water.

When selecting a mixer shower for use on a gravity system, the most important thing to consider is the flow rate that is achievable from the shower rose. Unless you have water pressure of at least 0.5 bar, which is equivalent to a gap of five meters between the bottom of the cold water storage tank and the shower rose you will need to select a 'Low Pressure' shower valve, capable of supplying a satisfactory shower at water pressures as low as 0.1 bar, (which is approximately one meter difference).

You will be able to get a rough idea simply by observing the flow rate of water that you receive from the bath taps. Remember that you will be mixing hot and cold water but if it appears slow then the chances are that the showers performance will be disappointing.

The solution is to fit a shower pump that pushes the water to your shower mixer thus creating an invigorating powerful showering experience.

If you opt for the pumped solution you must ensure that you have plenty of hot water storage capacity, for pumped showers can deliver anything between 11 - 25 Litres of blended water per minute, and this will drain the average sized cylinder very quickly.

You will have an idea of the amount of hot water that you have available by looking at the physical size of your cylinder and monitoring your everyday usage. For example the depth of hot water that you are able to achieve when running a bath before the hot water runs out. If you do not have large volumes of stored water, do not use a pump unless you alter the system to cope with it. Alternatively fit an electric shower.

Source: www.plumbingpages.com

Laying a Patio - 5 Easy Steps

Decided an outdoor dining area is your next project? Laying a patio in your garden will create a smart look that's easy to care for - but you’ll need some muscle to get the job done.

WHAT YOU NEED?

• spade
• wheelbarrow
• wooden pegs
• string
• hardcore
• spirit level
• levelling board or vibrating plate
• paving slabs
• building sand and cement, or ready-made mortar mix
• lump hammer
• pointing trowel

1. Mark out the position of your patio using pegs and strings. It’s easiest to adjust the size of the patio so that you don’t have to cut any of the slabs. Dig out to a depth of 15cm unless your patio is against the house in which case you’ll need to go an extra 15cm below the level of the damp-proof course.

2. Lay a 10cm layer of hardcore using wooden pegs as a depth marker. If your patio is against your house it will need to be angled slightly so that water runs away from the building. Use the pegs and a spirit level to guide you in creating this slight slope. Compact the hardcore using a board or a vibrating plate.

3. Lay the slabs down to check you’re happy with the arrangement. Start from the house or a wall or fence if there is one.

4. Make a mortar mix from five parts building sand to one part cement; or use ready-made mortar mix and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Create a bed of mortar 5 to 8cm deep and lay slabs on it; leaving 1cm gaps in between for grouting. Tap down the slabs with a lump hammer. Check with a spirit level as you go to ensure the slabs are level or maintaining the fall away from the house. Leave the mortar to set for at least 24 hours or a few days.

5. Fill in the spaces between the slabs with a mix of three parts building sand to one part cement (or your ready-made mix) using a pointing trowel. If you get any of the mix on the slabs; remove it. Allow to dry for a few days.



Source: www.channel4.com

Protect your home from fire

Every home contains potential sources of fire – such as cookers, electrical equipment or candles – so it makes sense to be fire aware, to fit smoke alarms and to keep fire-fighting equipment to hand.

SMOKE ALARMS

Fumes produced by smouldering fire can kill you without you even waking up. This is where smoke alarms offer vital protection, giving early warning of trouble. They are very reasonably priced, but remember to check that your device carries the British Standard kitemark.

The more alarms you have around your home, the safer you will be. If you live on one level, fit a smoke alarm in the hallway between the living and sleeping areas, ideally on the ceiling, at least 300mm away from a wall or light fitting. On a wall the alarm must be 150mm–300mm below the ceiling. It is pointless installing an alarm in a kitchen or bathroom, as steam will set it off. If your house has more than one storey, fit one alarm at the bottom of the staircase and an alarm on each landing. There are two types of smoke alarm:

1. An ionisation alarm is very sensitive to particles of smoke from a fast raging fire.

2. Photoelectric alarms are good for detecting the large quantities of smoke given off by smouldering fires.

Most of the smoke alarms are battery powered, so it’s important to check the batteries regularly. Better still, choose an alarm with a 10- year lithium battery. You can also buy mains-powered smoke alarms that are wired permanently to the electricity supply. When installing an
alarm always read the instructions thoroughly.

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

Fire extinguishers over 1kg should comply with either the new European Standard BS EN3 or the old BS 5423. To meet the new standard, extinguishers have all-red bodies with a band of colour to indicate the extinguishers contents. You should make yourself aware of the different colours used for the different types of fire.

Water extinguishers (red body) - Ideal for freely burning materials, such as paper, cloth and wood. Some contain water plus a special fire inhibitor that prevents materials burning. These
extinguishers are not suitable for flammable liquids or fires involving electrical appliances.

Foam extinguishers (red body with yellow band) - Multi-purpose foam extinguishers are suitable for fires involving freely burning materials such as paper, cloth and wood, plus most flammable liquids.

Powder extinguishers (red body with blue band) - Suitable for flammable liquids and electrical apparatus and most freely burning materials. But remember that powder smothers rather than cools the flames, so a fire may re-ignite.

Carbon dioxide extinguishers (red body with black band) - For fires involving flammable liquids or electrical equipment like computers, photocopiers or generators. Not to be used in confined spaces where fumes could be inhaled.

FIRE BLANKETS

A fire blanket is the simplest and safest way to extinguish a cooking-oil fire. Turn off the heat source, hold the blanket so that your hands are protected behind it, then drape it over the pan.
Flames will be smothered immediately, but you mustn’t remove the blanket for at least 30 minutes to allow the heat to decrease. Never pick up a blazing pan and run outside with it; flames blowing back could make you drop the pan and you could get burned.

Most modern fire blankets are made of woven glass; some are coated to ensure oils and fats can’t penetrate. If someone’s clothes are on fire, wrap a fire blanket around them to smother the flames.

FIRE LADDER

For peace of mind, consider keeping compact escape ladders in your upstairs bedrooms. These
can be stored in a roll that fits under the average bed. Escape ladders are lightweight but strong, flame-resistant, and easy to use.



Source: www.diy.com

Want to sell your home? Prepare it!

If you’re getting ready to move out or let prospective home buyers snoop through your home, you should check and fix, if necessary, the following common problem areas. These are the items that are mainly found by home inspectors and cause the most issues with repair requests. Getting them done now will save you money and stress later.

INDOOR REPAIRS

• Repair leaky faucets, sinks, dishwashers.
• If you see any sign of wall mildew or dampness, check for broken pipes inside the walls.
• Replace rusted, leaky garbage disposals.
• Replace significantly cracked floor tiles.
• Tack down loose carpeting or restretch and reattach wall-to-wall carpets.
• Repair holes in walls (from doorknobs) and other damage.
• Repair split door jams.
• Test and ensure that all indoor and outdoor light fixtures and wall outlets work properly.
• Remove or bring to code any rigged garage, workshop, attic or basement wiring.
• Remove soap scum, mildew and stains from bathrooms and kitchens.
• Empty and clean all cabinets.

FIREPLACES

• Check fireplace gas valves and dampers to ensure proper operation.
• Repair cracks to fire box and outside chimney.
• Install chimney-top spark arrester.

EXTERIOR REPAIRS

• Repair loose railings, steps and outdoor carpeting.
• Bring exterior lighting to code or remove.
• Replace cracked window panes and window caulking.
• Replace torn screens.
• Make sure all windows open and close properly and smoothly.
• Repair wobbly fencing and replace rotting wood.
• Repair sticky gates and broken latches.
• Replace broken sprinkler heads and repair leaks.
• Check that garage doors hang properly and that door openers work.
• Install missing gutters and downspouts.
• Clean any debris and get rid of any junk.

POOLS AND SPAS

• Repair pool/spa leaks and cracks, plus cracks in coping.
• Check operation of heater, pump, filter and underwater lights.
• Repair clogged spa jets.

LANDSCAPING

• Trim back tree limbs from house or eaves.
• Cut back ivy and other vegetation from wood-paneled exteriors.
• Weed and edge all beds. Freshen mulch if needed.
• Clean any debris.

With these minor repairs, your home should sell faster, for more money, and with less issues to be addressed between contract and closing!


Source: www.triangle-home-search.com

Inspiring Bedroom Decorating Ideas from Interior Complex

Interior Design: 5 Useful Books

Old House New Home by Ros Byam Shaw

How do you show off the best features of a home built for another age, while adapting it for modern living? In "Old House New Home", Ros Byam Shaw looks at the many different ways we can furnish and arrange an old building to suit today's needs, whether it is a terraced townhouse or a converted factory. Exploring properties as diverse as a small Victorian townhouse and a former country dairy, she reveals how the design of each home has been reinvented for the 21st century. This book is divided into a series of key styles: 'Period Piece', 'Urban Chic', 'Rustic', 'Recycled Spaces' and 'Country House'.

Choosing Colours by Kevin McCloud

Choosing the right colour for your home can be fraught with difficulties, and with literally thousands of shades of paint available in DIY stores the choice can be overwhelming. With this book, Kevin McCloud has taken the hard work out of home decorating by researching, selecting and combining over 750 colours into more than 60 tried-and-tested palettes that will transform your home. Stunningly well produced and printed in six colours for astonishing accuracy, each palette provides a blueprint for a decorative scheme that you can transfer to your own home confident in the knowledge that they have been sourced by a renowned authority on colour with a brilliant visual eye. Taken from a wide variety of sources - historical, regional and cultural - each palette is made up of a collection of 3-16 colour swatches and features a photograph demonstrating how the colours can be used in period or contemporary settings. With hints and tips on how best and in what situation to use each colour, the swatches are individually matched to a commercially available paint so that you effortlessly achieve each look.

Dream Homes: 100 Inspirational Interiors by Andreas von Einsiedel & Johanna Thornycroft


Everyone has an idea of their own dream home, whether it be a minimally furnished apartment overlooking a city skyline or an informal and colourful retreat in the sun. Whatever your dream, this bestselling book - now available in paperback for the first time - presents 100 inspirational interiors of all styles from around the globe, from New England to Mallorca and from Provence to South Africa. Alongside the work of many of the world's most talented interior designers are homes that have been imaginatively transformed by the vision and commitment of their owners.

The Lighting Bible: Ideas for Every Room in Your Home by Lucy Martin



How do you know what lighting to use to make the most of your interior? Should you use downlighting, uplighting, spots on the floor or the wall, or light the whole space? What light source should you choose, where should you put it and how can you control it? With more than 200 ideas for home decorators and interior designers, this practical guide shows how lighting can transform your home, increase the sense of space, provide practical lighting for working areas and bring warmth, ambience, highlights and drama. The book includes information on the technical aspects – lighting sources, strength, direction, angle, colour, control and so on – as well as on the design and look of lamp fittings, from desk lamps to chandeliers. A room-by-room directory looks at every kind of lighting requirement throughout a typical house – and the best solutions to use.

Thrifty Chic: Interior Style on a Shoestring by Liz Bauwens & Alexandra Campbell



When it comes to creating a home, "Thrifty Chic" shows you how to reuse and restore, revive and revamp, and recycle and reclaim, in order to create a stylish yet individual home without spending a small fortune. Room by room, the book explains how to give old furniture a new lease of life and how to bring a vintage charm to a room through an inspired use of fabrics and paints. There are ideas for window dressings as well as bed and table linens. There are projects for jazzing up old wooden furniture for both house and garden, and suggestions for pulling together mismatched items into cohesive schemes.The all-important finishing touches - display, china and ceramics, glassware, paintings and frames, fabrics and trims - are covered in detail, and you can learn how to create a variety of stylish accessories for your home. Get insider's tips on what to look for at antique markets and in charity shops, and how to care for and restore your bargain purchases. Whether you are creating your first home on a tight budget, or wanting to give your existing home a new look, "Thrifty Chic" contains a treasure trove of irresistible ideas.


All books are available at www.amazon.co.uk

Drywall Alternatives

Daily, practically 24/7, we are encased in drywall, and we don't even know why. Here's why.

Drywall's name is appropriate. In years past, plaster and lath was the predominant building method. But the "dry-out time" for plaster was forever.

Plaster is applied on-site. A thick layer of plaster takes a long time to dry as opposed to something thin like multiple layers of paint.

Then the great idea--and it was a great idea--that plaster could be applied off-site, in a factory, and in a nice flat form and sized to four feet by eight or ten feet. In essence, that's what drywall is: factory-made plaster, shipped to the site ready-made.

But drywall has been around for decades, and it is not a perfect building material. Bump it and it breaks. Get it wet and it turns soppy. Mold loves to live in drywall's paper covering (though there are mold-resistant drywall materials now).

Drywall is a miserable stuff. Granted, the innovation of drywall and its influence from the 1950s and 1960s onward was a vast improvement over the former method of building interior walls, which was plaster and lath.

The plaster and lath method involves nailing up hundreds of parallel, horizontal slats of wood called lath and then trawling on wet plaster and squeezing it between the gaps between the lath so that it forms a bonding element called a key. After drying, the key keeps the finished plaster coat in place.

Yet drywall is still difficult to work with, and it is not entirely dry because it doe involve the application of joint compound, followed by sanding of the dried compound. Because it creates clouds of fine dust, drywall sanding is one of the most dreaded jobs of all in home remodeling.

And that is just the installation aspect of drywall. Once it has been installed, drywall is very fragile and easily damaged; it is heavy; moisture can easily ruin it; it can develop mold and mildew; and as anyone who has ever tried to hang a picture on drywall knows, it's devilishly difficult to attach items without the use of special wall anchors.

Because of these reasons, many people are interested in finding alternatives to drywall. Below I have listed some drywall alternatives. But the fact remains that drywall is still--for all its strengths and evils--the best and often only material available for closing up interior walls. These drywall alternatives listed are to be used at your own discretion: building codes vary from place to place, and usually do dictate the usage of some type of gypsum board (drywall) due to the material's ability to retard fire.

N-WALL

N-Wall comes from National Wall Systems, Inc., and is styled and advertised expressly by the company as a green and alternative material. It is 3.5" inches thick (so it is comparably sized to regular walls), made of fiberboard, framed in metal, and each panel is movable and interchangeable. N-Wall system wall panels reach from the floor to the ceiling and will accept electrical service and window punch outs.

VENEER PLASTER

Veneer plaster is like the love child of drywall and plaster. It combines the strengths of each of those two materials. With regular lath and plaster construction, a monolithic (i.e., one solid layer) of plaster is applied to the wood lath strips. One problem with this is that this thick coat of plaster takes a long time to dry out. But with veneer plaster, half-inch gypsum drywall is applied to the studs and then a thin, veneer coat of plaster is applied to the entire surface of the drywall. One marked advantage is that plaster has a greater strength rating than drywall, so it is more resistant to the everyday knocks and scrapes that walls may encounter.

OSB or PLYWOOD

OSB stands for oriented strand board and is used mainly as exterior wall sheathing or as floor underlayment. If you are dealing with a nonresidential structure, OSB may work well as an interior wall covering. While it is not fire rated, OSB, particularly half-inch or thicker, provides a solid interior wall covering for structures like sheds and workshops--places where walls will get scuffed and bumped quite often. OSB can be painted but the "dazzle" pattern of the stranded wood underneath usually will show underneath paint layers. Note, too, that OSB often has a waxy surface which makes it difficult for the paint to adhere.

Half-inch plywood will provide a similar wall covering, the main difference being that plywood is easier to paint (but still will show wood grain) and is easier to handle than OSB as it is slightly lighter.

PLASTER AND LATH

"Plaster and lath" is not only the two words plaster and lath, but combined defines a method of finishing interior walls that rarely is used anymore except to repair existing plaster and lath walls. Precedes the use of drywall as a means of covering up studs on the interior of a house.

First, a substrate in the form of a grid of lath is nailed perpendicular to the open house studs roughly a finger-width apart from each other. Then a thick layer of wet plaster is hand-troweled onto the lath and allowed to dry, before finish surfaces such as paint or wallpaper are applied.

Although few houses are built from scratch with the lath and plaster technique, countless houses remain with this type of building material. Homeowners can repair plaster walls by themselves quite easily. Also, companies which specialize in finishing drywall may be able to repair plaster walls, as well. Of course, urban areas that have a large quantity of older houses may have tradesmen who specialize only in plaster application and repairs.

Source: Lee Wallender at www.about.com

Interior Paint Colours - Choose the best one for your home

RED

Red is the color of passion, action, danger and desire.

In the home red rouses appetites in dining rooms and to seduce in bedrooms; adds warmth, to unloved areas like hallways and stairways; stimulates activity in kitchens; avoid stress-inducing red in offices.

In style red is sexy in a 'Moulin rouge' style boudoir (think velvet drapes and black lace); sleek, chic and contemporary in an oriental-style living room; classic, in darker shades in a formal, Empire-look dining room.

ORANGE

Orange has a sense of humour. It laughs out loud. Frank Sinatra once said: 'Orange is the happiest colour'. He was right.

In the home orange stimulates. Like red, orange inspires activity, so use a dash in your office.
Adds va-va-voom. Breathe life into sombre north-facing rooms and dark stairwells.Energises; use tangy oranges for children's playrooms - they'll love you for it.

In style orange is earthy and vibrant in an African-style living room (think big pots and wood stool ); retro, in a 70s-style living room with low-level brown leather sofas; exotic,with turquoise and hot pink in a Mexican-style look.

GOLD

Go for gold. After all you rule your own castle.You don't need to be rich to indulge yourself with gold.

In the home gold indulges; bathe in gold's vibrant, warm rays in your hot tub. Lightens and brightens; gold adds warmth to dark north-facing rooms. Looks luxurious; give your living room a movie star allure with gold gloss.

In style gold is decadent; turn your home into a castle with golds, deep violets and rich reds. Summery; imagine the sun on ripe barley and team gold with soft blues and fresh whites. Ageless; gold is always in fashion, but for contemporary looks combine gold with cool neutrals.

YELLOW

Sunny, bright yellow uplifts us. It inspires confidence and ideas. Yellow is the first colour to be seen by newborns. It brings light and life.

In the home yellow lightens sunless, north-facing rooms and creates a feeling of space in small rooms. Energises; pale yellow works as a morning pick-me-up in bathrooms. Welcomes; bring a beaming yellow into kitchens and living rooms.

In style yellow is bright and breezy in a sunflower-and-blue French country kitchen look; stylish and chic in a retro 50s-style kitchen with vintage accessories; classic with white ceilings in an Edwardian-style living room.

GREEN


Give green the green light. It heals, nurtures and comforts. Green, abundant in nature, is the colour of health, growth and good judgement.

In the home green restores body and mind in bathrooms with jade and mint shades. Reflects; in home offices, warmer shades encourage good decision making. Is refreshing; a crisp, apple green with white looks uplifting in kitchens.

In style green is naturally chic in olive or shades with woods and dark leathers
in living rooms. Timeless with apricots and tans in Art Deco-style bedrooms. Zen-like in its softer shades; think Japanese (cane furniture, grasses, celadon pots).

BLUE

Dive in to blue. It's a colour that cools, calms and soothes. Blue is the world's favourite colour. It lets us relax and reflect.

In the home blue creates calm in bedrooms by stilling the mind, particularly in its softer tints. Stimulates ideas in stronger shades in home offices or studies. Revives body and mind in bathrooms; choose fresh blues like aqua and turquoise.

In style blue is refreshing in a Moroccan blue-white bathroom scheme. Laid-back and chic with chocolate leather sofas and dark woods in a living room. Timeless (think Wedgwood pottery, Delft tiles) in a Georgian-style kitchen.

VIOLET

Violet is connected with the spirit. It is creative and inspirational. Violet is a deeply spiritual colour, but it's also associated with royalty and riches.

In the home violet relaxes. Violet encourages meditation and repose in bathrooms. Is glamorous; plum shades with silver in a living room look indulgent. Inspires; as violet encourages creativity, use it on studio walls.

In style violet is opulent; conjure up an 'Arabian Nights' look with gold and violet cushions.
Luxurious; mix lighter shades with chocolate brown for a modern, comfortable style. Tranquil; go for the urban loft look with light shades and designer furnishings.

NEUTRAL

Neutrals are easy-going. These colours go anywhere anytime. Neutrals are the perfect canvas for all the things you love to live with.

In the home neutrals help you unwind. Neutrals help you put your feet up in living rooms; are peaceful; in bedrooms, these serene hues help induce sleep. Calm; in bathrooms or studies
these quiet colours allow your thoughts to roam.

In style neutrals is good for natural looks; think modern rustic (mix with leather, wicker, hemp).
Minimalist; for a clean-lined look that's not too cold, neutrals are perfect. Ageless; neutrals go with everything so these colours can form the basis to many styles.


Source: www.dulux.in

DIY Plastering - Tools

If you find yourself involved in a home improvement project such as hanging drywall, painting or wallpapering, having the proper plastering tools are essential. Fortunately, all of these items are available at your local hardware or home improvement store.

TROWEL

A trowel is an important plastering tool that allows you to smooth the plaster after applying it to the wall. This tool is used to flatten the plaster down over the area intended for plastering. It’s important to have a good, clean surface on the trowel to provide for a uniform finish.

HAWK

A hawk is used by the professionals to carry the plaster with them as they move down the wall. An advantage of this, over carrying plaster in a pan or working from the bucket directly, is the amount of drywall compound that that can be picked up by the trowel in each “scooping” action. As plaster sticks to the hawk after a few seconds the hawk can be tipped up at a 90 degree angle whilst scooping plaster off with the trowel.

MUD PAN


A mud pan can be used instead of a hawk for the less experienced plasterer. While it can be more wasteful, time consuming and laborious scooping plaster material out of the pan, it is harder to spill material onto the floor with the pan than with a hawk.

UTILITY KNIFE/SCISSORS


A utility knife or scissors will help cut plaster tape to size. The utility knife is employed to square out the edge of the hole to be plastered over if repairing damaged walls. Straight edged holes are easier to smooth over for an even surface.

SPONGE/SANDPAPER



A wet sponge is used to smooth out unevenness that may occur after plastering the wall.
Coarse grit sandpaper is used quickly to smooth out large areas of rough unevenness, and then the finer grit is used to finish up the area.

JOINTING KNIFE


A jointing knife is essential for defining a straight line and edging into tight spaces such as corners and those areas that are tight, such as between a window near the wall and the wall that is perpendicular to it. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes as needed. Angled jointing knives help reach hard to reach angles.

STEP LADDER

A step ladder is an invaluable tool for reaching the holes in the walls at the higher areas. Try to get a ladder which includes a pan shelf at the top. You can carry the materials and tools you are using in the pan to reduce fatigue and time spent going up and down the ladder.

BUCKET



Never discount the importance of a couple buckets of clear, fresh water for keeping tools clean and for wetting the sponge during the project.


By having the right plastering tools for the job, your next home improvement project will go off without a hitch.


Source: www.davesdiytips.com

Exterior house painting preparation.

The most important step in exterior house painting does not involve a paintbrush but rather paint scraping tools. Preparing the surface prior to painting your home will make or break your paint job. It is rarely the paint film itself that fails but rather the adhesion of the paint to the surface below (often called "substrate" in painting lingo). The reason paint fails to adhere is because the surface to which it was applied was dirty, wet or was loose itself. So making sure your paint surface is clean, dry, free from grease, oils and flaking or loose paint will give your primer and paint a good surface from which to bond. Painting the exterior of your house over a dirty or poorly prepared surface is like building a house on a bad foundation, and that's never been a good idea.

Let's review the tools you'll need to get byour house ready for a paint job that will last many years.

Difficulty level:

• Average (Labouriuos)

Needed tools and materials:

• Paint Scraper
• Putty Knife
• Sandpaper/Sanding Block
• Stiff Brush
• Heat Gun Paint Remover (optional)
• Power Washer (optional)

PREPARATION

With your home painting project you first need to work around the house before you can work on the house. So that nothing gets damaged, you need to protect surrounding landscape plantings, air conditioning units, BBQ grills and the like from cleaning agents, paint chips, paint splatters and other debris.

1. Turn off power to the air conditioner condensing unit.

2. Turn off gas to the BBQ grill and other appliances.

3. Using canvas drop cloths cover the exterior appliances, foundation plantings and other delicate plants that could be damaged. Don't use plastic tarps since they do not breathe like canvas and the plantings will swelter under the plastic sheets.

4. You may want to tie a cord around tall bushes near the house and pull the bush away from the home and stake it in the ground so the bush does not interfere with painting.

REMOVING FIXTURES

Once this is done, it's a good time to remove things affixed to the home.

1. Remove light fixtures, mailbox, shutters, decorations, etc.

2. Patch, repair and paint shutters and any other items. You'll replace these once the painting of the house body is complete.

REMOVING LOOSE PAINT

The first step in paint surface preparation is to remove the loose paint. One method used to do this and clean the house at the same time is called "power washing." Some people love these tools and some don't. A power washer uses water from your hose and increases the water pressure as it leaves the wand to between 2,200 to 3,500 psi. In the hands of an experienced painting professional this tool can be useful. However in the hands of the inexperienced it can damage your home:

At high pressures the water jet can etch wood, even brick and blast mortar from joints.

Power washer will remove loose paint but may also lift or weaken the bond of good paint surrounding the removed loose paint.

Other issues with power washing include:

The high pressure water can soak the wall and requires time to dry out before painting.

Since the power washer does not fully remove all loose paint, the wall still needs hand scraping after the power washing and drying period.

In the end, power washing is no substitute for hand scraping.

SCRAPING

I wish there were a way around this step but in the world of good paint preparation, removing loose paint and preparing the surface will always involve hand scraping and sanding. As mentioned earlier, even with power washing you will still have to scrape and sand to properly prepare the surface since not all loose paint is removed with a power washer.

1. Only work on removing paint and sanding when the paint is dry. There are several tools you can use including a paint scraper, putty knife, heat gun paint remover, sandpaper and sanding block.

2. To start scraping you find the weak link. Using a 6"-8" wide putty knife, find the loosest part of the peeling paint and get under it and lift and scrape.

3. Use the corner of the putty knife to dig and chip at corners of the bad paint to remove as much poorly adhered paint as possible. You can try wire brushes too, but I've found they work only on the looser paint and you need the hard edge of a scraper or putty knife to really remove loose paint.

4. A detail scraper is another scraping tool you may use to scrape away at loose paint in small detailed areas like around molding.

5. On wood siding make sure you don't gouge the wood with scraping.

6. A heat gun paint remover can be used to loosen thicker paint. Just make sure to keep the heat gun moving to avoid excessive heat build up. As the paint softens, scrape it loose with a putty knife.

SANDING

Once the loose paint is scraped away and all remaining paint has good bond to the surface, the next step is to sand the surfaces where paint has been removed. It is important to feather or blend and minimize the hard edge visible at the seam of where paint has been removed and where it remains. Feathering is especially important on wood siding since siding is smoother than say a painted brick surface and surface irregularities are more noticeable on smooth siding.

1. Before sanding fill in any cracks, holes or gouges with exterior epoxy wood filler and let dry.

2. If you have large areas that need patching, either replace the wood or if it's not that serious, you can try an automotive body filler instead of wood filler.

3. With the paint scraped and the holes filled, you are ready to sand. Start with about an 80 grit sandpaper and an orbital power sander for larger areas.

4. For smaller sanding areas, a sanding block with hand sanding works well. Use about 120 grit sandpaper in these areas.

5. Sand areas smooth working to feather and eliminate all hard edges.

WASHING

Once the surface is scraped and sanded and the surrounding landscape area is protected with cloth drop cloths, it's time to give your house a good washing. Cleaning the surface free of dirt, grease, loose or flaking paint is essential for the primer and paint to properly adhere to the substrate.

1. Remove your home's window screens, storm doors and storm windows and anything else that should not get painted.

2. If you have a power washer use it at the lowest pressure possible while still cleaning the surface of dirt. Use a wide spread fan tip and NEVER place the tip close to the wall surface. Remember, you can do serious damage to your exterior wall if improperly used.

3. If you're going to wash the house by hand it's worth it to get a car wash brush unit that gets attached to the garden hose to help make shorter work of this task.

4. Put on your eye protection and in a bucket mix water and trisodium phosphate (TSP) to clean the wall surface and degloss any existing paint. Be careful using TSP, it is a powerful chemical.

5. Work from the top of your house down. Rinse each section you complete with clean water.

If your house has any areas of mildew, you must kill the mildew with a mildew cleaner or make your own solution using bleach and water.

DRYING

Once the house has been washed and cleaned, let the house dry. This is very important or else the paint will peel prematurely ruining the entire project. Not letting the house dry before painting is a common cause of paint failure.

If you're going to paint with latex paint, then wait at least one day. If you're using oil based paint then you need to wait at least one week before you paint. If you have used a power washer at high pressure to clean and remove loose paint, then you may have to extend these drying time recommendations depending how wet the wall surface became.

Caulk gaps around windows, doors, between siding, molding, columns, etc. If you have wood siding, look for nail heads that may be sticking up a little bit. If you find any, nail them back down using a nail countersink and putty the hole.

Once you've completed these tasks, you're now ready to paint with the confidence that you have done a professional job in paint preparation and your paint job will last many years.

Home renovation tips: Stripping exterior paint

When the paint is peeling on a house, many homeowners opt for covering it with vinyl siding. But if you've got an old house with a great exterior, such as real clapboard, you may not want to hide its beauty. Then exterior paint stripping is your only option.

Stripping paint is hard, nasty, and potentially dangerous. What are your options for stripping exterior paint?

PROPANE BLOWTORCH

The blowtorch has been a perennial favourite of homeowners for many years because it's cheap and relatively fast. But its disadvantages far outweigh its advantages. First, it's dangerous. Applying a very hot flame to old, often-brittle wood siding is inviting a visit from the fire department. Not only can start a fire on the wood siding, but you can unintentionally hit pockets within the walls that may contain other dry things. As any homeowner who has removed a wall knows, inside you'll find newspapers, blown-in paper-based insulation, and other highly flammable things. Secondly, hitting lead-based paint with flame releases toxic lead fumes. You can be certain that your old house has lead-based paint. My advice? Ditch this option.

HEAT GUN

Electric heat guns are safer than blowtorches because they don't operate hot enough to release toxic fumes. You also have less of a risk of burning down your house, but the risk is still there. Keep in mind, you'll be working with a cord (unlike the propane torch, which is self-contained). They aren't really a viable option for large areas, but they do work well for small, difficult areas or for ornamental surfaces.

ELECTRIC SANDERS

Orbital (rotating) or belt sanders are a good option. They rip off the paint quickly. However, if you lay into the sander too hard, you risk gouging the wood. And again, there's the lead-based paint problem. Everything that the sander takes off is immediately converted into dust. Dust that goes into your hair, face, and lungs. Check in your locality if it's even legal to use these types of sanders. Some communities ban them.

SANDBLASTING

Definitely not a do-it-yourself project, sandblasting does remove paint but it's also very effective at removing wood. If you choose to go with this option, be aware that sandblasting will bring up the grain in your wood so that it has a very rough, grooved appearance.

CHEMICAL STRIPPERS

Now you've got two toxins to battle: lead and the chemicals in the stripper. Despite the toxicity, chemical strippers do have their place in the workshop. It's satisfying to see that paint bubble right off. Save it for small projects, though.

SCRAPING

A sharp, rigid putty knife or a blade designed just for paint scraping is your best bet. You'll minimize the dust, and you'll have better control than if you used a sander. If you've got very loose or alligatored paint, scraping really is easier than any other option. Get a sharpener or a whetstone to keep that scraper sharpened up. Scraping--though admittedly hard work--tends to be the best choice for general exterior paint stripping chores.


By Lee Wallender
www.about.com

9 Amazing Bathroom Designs

NATURE INSPIRED BATHROOM BY PODESTA


A curved vanity top and oval basin - both in limestone - soften the look, complemented by St Adrien pale polished marble floor tiles that have been sealed with 4 layers of acid-catalysed lacquer. Warm timber and elegant stone, oak for the bench seat and American walnut for the rest of the cabinetry add a comtemporary feel.

LUXURY BATHROOM BY KASCH

Luxury is characterised by refined abundance in these fabulous bath interior from Kasch. Have you ever drunk sake from a wooden ‘masu’ cup? The Japanese pour sake into the wooden box cup until it overflows into the saucer below. This Oriental association lends an air of generosity to each bath design, simple though they may be. Wide open floor space of tile or wood draw the eye immediately to the centre of attention: the overflow bathtub set right into the floor. A focus on natural elements, such as pebbles used to surround the tub or as a border, keeps the design firmly grounded. Proximity to other water features, such as ponds, lakes, or simply water channels filled with flowering water plants re-emphasise the importance of water to us.

MODERN BATHROOM FROM VIVA CERAMICA


This modern bathroom design by Viva Ceramica creating a cool contemporary feel to your bathroom space. Featuring an inspired blend of retro-industrial-chic style, this modern bathroom design features contemporary white tile with an edge. A large-scale black-and-white floral motif adds interest without overwhelming the space, putting some pop into this otherwise pretty space. Chic chrome-plated fixtures shine in the background with an understated elegance, making way for the colorful star of this show – the unusual soft lilac-purple vanity and matching pendant light fixtures. Combining art with function, these colorful accents really bring all the elements of this design together.

CREATIVE BATHROOM BY MASTELLA


Italian bath furniture design company Mastella has introduced a bathroom suite inspired by Calla lily flower. It’s designed by architect Oriano Favaretto and looks organic and very creative. The shape of the freestanding bathtub and pedestal sinks reflects the organic flower design, making them the focal point of the bathroom space.

STONE BATHROOM BY BIGELLI MARMI



Very sleek and elegant, the this bathroom fixture will truly give your bathroom an extraordinary appearance, and the creative stone made the collection preserve the value of creative stones, while bringing in the modern design that suits in every contemporary bathrooms of today. The freestanding basin made the collection unique and eventually made the collection stands out from the rest.

MASTER BATHROOM BY PEARL


This Master bathroom design is featuring by stunning drop-in bathtub and a built-in fireplace. In the first look, you will be give new appreciating. Beautiful master bathroom design for modern house. The Eternal drop-in bathtub makes a striking centerpiece in this sumptuous bathroom, complete with hydrotherapy, heat therapy, air therapy, chroma therapy and aromatherapy for your at-home spa.

OUTSTANDING BATHROOM FROM FRANCO PECCHIOLLI


Inspired by the life aquatic, this contemporary bathroom features a new ceramic tile collection by Italian designer Franco Pecchioli. Drenched in vivid oceanic shades of aquamarine speckled with black and white, the bathroom is bathed in the soothing tones of the deep. Bringing water and earth together, these ceramic bathroom tiles incorporate organic materials like metals and mosaics for a raw yet refined look.The piece de resistance of this elegant bathroom is the bathtub, finished inside and out with a blend of mixed motifs – ceramic slabs on the exterior, square ceramic tiles lining the interior, and flower-pattern tiles at the very bottom.

FAMILY BATHROOM BY GLOBE BATHROOMS

A stylish way to ease early morning pressure on the bathroom, matching basins look fantastic and also give family members their own personal storage space. Varying the height of the cabinets not only adds visual interest but also caters for differences in height of those using the basin and mirror – an important consideration that’s often over looked.

COLOURFUL BATHROOM BY BRISTAN


Painting walls in a shade you'd not normally consider in a bathroom is another easy way to create an elegant feel, as is choosing a suite with splashes of colour rather than pure white. As for paint, choose one that's suitable for bathrooms and go for as matt a finish as possible.

5 gadgets for DIYers

A BETTER WAY TO PAINT

If you worry about stepping on a tray full of paint as you’re coating your walls, the EZ Twist paint stick can ease your mind; by combining a roller with an in-handle paint reservoir, EZ Twist eliminates the need for extraneous trays. The paint reservoir is replenished via an independent fill tube that connects on one side to a snap-on paint can cover, and on the other to an opening in the roller handle. A simple twist of the handle creates suction that fills the reservoir with up to 18 ounces of paint, enough to cover 8 square feet of wall. Surplus paint can be returned to the can by reversing the motion, and parts clean up by flushing with water. EZ Twist comes with a roller cover (3⁄8″ nap), splatter shield, fill tube, and paint can cover. Available at www.amazon.co.uk

AIR GRIP LASER LEVEL


In an old house, where there’s rarely a straight line, a level is a must, and one that keeps your hands free is even better. Ryobi’s tiny laser level vacuum-grips the wall, even on uneven surfaces, to stay in place while you align shelves and picture frames. Unlike other hands-free levels that use sticky paper or pins, this one won’t mark your walls. Available at www.homedepot.com

METAL CLEANUP WITH MAGNETIC SWEEPER

For quick and easy cleanup of nails, screws, bolts, and other metal items around the shop or in the yard—like after a roofing repair project—the Magnetic Sweep from Veritas can be your best friend. The strong 9½”-wide magnet easily attracts up to 2 pounds of metal per sweep. Its low profile and flexible neck help it fit easily under cars, bushes, or shelves, and it also boasts an extendable handle that adjusts from 21″ to 47″. Available at www.amazon.com

HANDS-FREE FLASHLIGHT



Anyone who’s struggled to hold a flashlight while working in a crawlspace will appreciate the new Gorillatorch Blade, which stands on articulating ball-and-socket tripod legs that bend to wrap around just about anything—and what they can’t wrap around, they usually can stick to thanks to strong magnets in their feet. With 130 lumens and features like an adjustable wide- to spot-beam, the Blade makes getting targeted lighting where you need it a snap. Its lithium-ion battery also easily recharges through either an AC adapter or the USB port on your computer. Available at www.amazon.co.uk

TAPE MEASURE FOR MORONS ;)

If you are a do-it-yourself kind of guy that is a little simple likes to keep things simple, the Dumb Handman’s Tape Measure will be your new best friend.

As you can see, the units of measurement are measured out in actual feet – not numbers. Unfortunately, if my handyman showed up using something like this I would have serious doubts about his craftsmanship ;)

Sources:
www.oldhouseonline.com
www.nerdapproved.com

DIY Pest Control - Ants

The truth about ants is that they are pests. When an ant scout finds a source of food, the army soon follows to get as much of the food out of the area before a larger predator comes along and starts eating the ants. The unfortunate thing is, ants are very versatile and can be incredibly difficult to get rid of. Fortunately, there are ways to get rid of them.

Begin by cleaning up the area that the ants are infesting. If there area is dirty or has a lot of scrap food, the ants are going to continue coming back. If you cut their source of nourishment, they aren’t going to come nearly as much because there isn’t any food there.

Get rid of any scouts. A scout ant is an ant that patrols around on its own. When it finds food, it goes back to the colony, leaving a trail behind it to follow back. Once the scout gets back to the colony, more ants will come to start collecting the food. Killing the scout means no ants will know the place exists.

Fill any cracks that might be in the walls. Seal windows and doors. If you get rid of any of these doorways for the ants, they will have to search for other ways in. More importantly for you, though, it’ll save money on energy because cold air won’t be able to get in during the winter to combat the heat you’re using.

Get rid of the nest. Finding the nest can be tricky; however, when it is found, completely destroy it. This doesn’t mean filling the hole in because they will simply dig it out. This means pouring boiling water down into the nest so that it completely floods the entire nest. This will kill the queen which will result in the extinction of that colony.

Mix boric acid powder with sugar and water. Take one cup of water, mix it with two cups of sugar, and two tablespoons of boric acid. The ants will come, take the food, and then bring it home. However, because there is acid in it, it will kill the entire colony. The trick is to create a poison strong enough to kill the colony over time, but not strong enough to kill the ants before they get home.

Mix a teaspoon and a half of dish soap and a teaspoon of rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle. Fill it to the top, shake, and then spray. Spray it on the openings where the ants are coming. It’ll kill any ants on contact and, more importantly, they won’t come back again. Wipe up when you’re done and it is safe for kids to be in the area.

Killing ants can be difficult and it does require a little tact because they are tricky pests. However, cleaning up the area that the ants are coming to is one of the most effective ways of getting rid of ants. Don’t give them an environment that they can use and they won’t stick around.


Source: www.getridofants.org

Spring Maintenance Tips

After a long, dark winter, spring's bright sun and warm winds are, well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in the sunshine.

1. Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.

2. Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.

3. Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.

4. From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.

5. Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.

6. Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.

7. Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.

8. Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.

9. Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.

10. Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier.



Source: www.hgtv.com